Chicken Run Construction: The Lumberyard Pro's Step-by-Step Layering Method

This build plan produces a 6-foot-by-12-foot stationary chicken run with a single-slope shed roof. The frame is pressure-treated lumber; the enclosure is ½-inch hardware cloth anchored with stainless screws and fender washers. A builder with a circular saw, a drill, and a 4-foot level can complete the structure in about 16 to 20 hours of work. The cut list is exact. There is no guesswork.

Cut Diagram and Material List

Sort the pieces by label before you cut anything. The table corresponds to a numbered diagram; each piece is dimensioned as it will appear in the finished frame. All sizes are nominal.

Beyond the table, gather: 10 60‑lb bags of concrete mix; 3 bundles of three‑tab asphalt shingles; 1 roll #15 roofing felt; drip edge; 3‑in. galvanized framing nails or structural screws; landscape staples; and coarse sand or wood chips for the floor.

Tools and Site Preparation

You will need: a circular saw (a miter saw speeds the job but is not required), cordless drill/driver, a 4‑ft level, framing square, 25‑ft tape measure, post hole digger, wheelbarrow, shovel, mixing hoe, staple gun, tin snips, safety glasses, and gloves. Choose a site that drains. Call 811 to locate utilities. Clear a 14‑ft × 8‑ft rectangle down to bare soil. Orient the run so water runs away from the coop door.

Assembly Steps: From Post Holes to Roof Sheathing

1. Stake the Footprint and Dig Post Holes

Set batter boards about 2 ft outside each corner and stretch mason’s line to form a 6‑ft‑×‑12‑ft rectangle. Check squareness by measuring both diagonals; they must match to within 1⁄8 inch, or the frame will rack. At each line intersection, dig a 10‑in.‑diameter hole. Go 24 to 30 inches deep, or deeper if your frost line requires it. Add 3 to 4 inches of gravel to the bottom of every hole for drainage.

2. Set the Four Corner Posts in Concrete

Stand a 4×4 post in each hole, plumb it in two directions, and brace it solidly. Mix concrete to a stiff, oatmeal‑like consistency and pour it around the post. Taper the concrete surface outward so rainwater drains away. Let the concrete cure 24 hours. Mark the high‑side posts at 7 ft above finish grade and the low‑side posts at 6 ft, then cut the tops square.

3. Install Bottom Plates

Lay pressure‑treated 2×4 bottom plates on a bed of compacted gravel or on cement pavers to keep wood off soil. The plates form a rectangle flush with the outside faces of the posts. Fasten each plate to every post it meets with three 3‑in. galvanized nails or structural screws, toenailed. Check for level as you go; if a plate rocks, shim it, then fasten.

4. Frame the Walls

Cut all studs to the exact lengths listed in the cut table. Snap a chalk line every 16 inches on center along the bottom plate and a matching top plate. Place a stud at each mark and toenail through the stud into the plate—two nails on each side. On the high‑side wall, the first top plate is a single 2×4; let it run long past the corners until the walls are stood and braced plumb. Then cap all walls with the second top plate, overlapping corners to lock the assembly.

5. Build the End Walls and Door Opening

Choose one end for the door and frame a 30‑in.‑wide opening. King studs run full height, and jack studs stop at the bottom of the header. Cut a 2×6 header to span the opening and nail it through the king studs. The sloped end walls require individual stud lengths: from the high corner to the low corner, every stud lengthens or shortens because the roof plane drops. Measure each one from the bottom plate to the underside of the rafter line and cut to fit.

6. Install Rafters and Fascia

Mark rafter positions 16 inches on center on the top plates. Cut each rafter with a 9.5° bevel at both ends. For the high‑side plate, cut a birdsmouth notch so the rafter bears flat; on the low side, a simple beveled cut is enough. Set each rafter, fasten with four 3‑in. nails per connection, then attach 2×4 fascia boards to the rafter tails on the front and back.

7. Sheathe and Roof the Structure

Lay ½‑in. plywood sheets across the rafters, staggering the joints. Fasten with 8d ring‑shank nails every 6 inches on edges and every 12 inches in the field. Apply drip edge, roofing felt overlapped 2 inches, and three‑tab shingles working from the low eave up. If you want metal roofing, sheathing is still advisable for predator resistance; secure the panels with screws that have bonded neoprene washers, and overlap one full corrugation.

8. Wrap with Hardware Cloth and Install the Predator Apron

Start at one corner and unroll the 48‑in.‑wide hardware cloth horizontally around the run. Tack it temporarily with poultry staples every 12 inches. Inspect the alignment, then shift to permanent attachment: drill pilot holes and drive a stainless screw with a fender washer through every 6‑inch interval on every stud and plate. At the base, leave a 12‑in. horizontal skirt all the way around. Bend it flat and pin it to the ground with landscape staples spaced 6 inches apart. Cover the apron with 2 inches of soil or gravel.

9. Build the Door and Perform a Final Inspection

Frame a door from 2×4s, wrap it with hardware cloth, and hang it with heavy‑duty hinges. Walk the entire structure with a flashlight. Light passing through anywhere signals a gap. Patch gaps with hardware cloth squares screwed in place. Verify the apron is flat and continuous. Test the door latch: if it can be jiggled open, replace it with a barrel bolt and add a carabiner.

Common Mistakes When Building This Run

Forgetting to Slope the Roof Correctly

This plan assumes a 12‑inch drop over the 6‑foot width, a 2:12 pitch. If post heights are off even an inch, water ponds. Use a laser or water level to confirm the high wall is 12 inches taller than the low wall before you cut rafters. A flat or nearly flat roof will leak.

Using Untreated Lumber at Ground Contact

Only pressure‑treated lumber rated for ground contact belongs in this run. Even treated wood wicks moisture from concrete; set bottom plates on a gravel bed or plastic spacer. After cutting, brush a copper naphthenate preservative on every fresh cut.

Skipping the Predator Apron

A vertical hardware cloth wall that ends at the soil line is a digging invitation. Raccoons and foxes can excavate under it in one night. The 12‑inch bent apron, pinned flat, is the most effective single security measure in the design. Do not shorten it.

Overdriving Screws on Hardware Cloth

Stainless screws with fender washers spread the load; if the screw head tears through the washer, the mesh will rip. Stop as soon as the washer dimples the cloth. Use the clutch on your drill to limit torque.

Using Deck Screws for Structural Connections

Deck screws have poor shear strength. Every stud‑to‑plate and rafter‑to‑plate connection needs 3‑in. galvanized framing nails or structural screws. Deck screws snap when the frame shifts.

Neglecting the Individual Stud Lengths in Sloped Walls

The end walls slope with the roof. Cutting all studs the same length leaves a triangular gap that is nearly impossible to seal later. Measure each stud individually after the roof line is set.

Variations: Different Roofing, Sizes, and Door Styles

Metal Roofing Instead of Shingles

Metal panels reduce weight. If you use them without sheathing, add 2×4 purlins across the rafters for support. Fasten with screws that have neoprene washers, and overlap one full corrugation at side laps. Seal the ridge gap with a foam closure strip.

Scaling Up to 8×12 or 10×12

For a wider run, increase rafter size to 2×6 and post size to 4×6. The framing sequence does not change. Lengthening the run simply requires additional studs and rafters at the same 16‑in. spacing.

Adding a Human Door at Both Ends

A second door aids cleaning but reduces wall bracing. When framing a second opening, install 2×4 diagonal braces on the walls—from top plate to bottom plate at roughly 45°—before wrapping with hardware cloth.

Switching to ¼-Inch Hardware Cloth

Where rats or weasels are a problem, ¼‑inch mesh is a better barrier. Fastening with screws and washers still works, but the small openings make alignment slower. Expect to spend 30 to 45 minutes more per panel.

Frequently Asked Questions About This Run Design

Do I need a building permit for a chicken run this size?

Many local codes exempt structures under 200 square feet, but setbacks and height limits apply. Check with your building department. Describe a 72‑square‑foot, 7‑ft‑tall structure. If a permit is required, a simple shed permit usually applies.

How deep should the post holes be?

Depth depends on frost line. In much of the U.S., 24 inches is enough; in northern states, go to 36 inches. Always put 4 inches of gravel at the bottom.

Can I use this plan to build a movable run on wheels?

No. This design relies on concrete‑set posts, bottom plates, and a buried apron for stability. A movable run needs a lightweight frame and a different floor system.

What keeps the hardware cloth taut between studs?

Studs 16 inches on center provide support every 16 inches. Screws and fender washers cinch the cloth. If a panel still shows a belly, add a 2×2 vertical strip inside the frame.

Should I paint or stain the pressure-treated lumber?

Wait a few months until the moisture content drops below 15% (check with a meter), then apply an exterior penetrating stain. Do not paint fresh treated wood; the coating will peel.

After the Run Is Standing

Before you move birds in, walk the perimeter with a flashlight at dusk. Any light visible from inside means a gap—patch it. Tug each screw and staple; one loose fastener gives a predator a start. Spread a 3‑inch layer of coarse sand or wood chips inside to keep feet dry. Test the door latch hard; if it can be jiggled, add a secondary lock. Introduce a few hens during daylight while you watch from outside. Once the run passes those checks, install a secure feeder and waterer, and add a dust‑bath area. If the run is not already connected to a coop, that is the logical next project: a fully enclosed pathway or an attached coop with a pop door.