Skip the Run Apron? That $50 Save Could Cost Your Entire Flock
Skipping the anti-dig apron cuts about $50 from the build cost. One raccoon can kill the entire flock in a single night, so that savings evaporates instantly. Stop the threat with a layered defense: ½-inch mesh hardware cloth walls, an anti-dig apron extending 12 inches outward, and overhead netting with a mesh no larger than 2 inches. Each layer blocks a specific attack—reaching, digging, climbing.
A raccoon’s paw slips through any opening over 1 inch, and its bite tears through chicken wire without effort. The solution is a three-barrier system that leaves no gap unaddressed. Hardware cloth with ½-inch square mesh prevents paws from grasping birds; 19-gauge wire—or 16-gauge where raccoons are heavy—resists chewing. The apron, made from the same cloth, runs 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, creating a horizontal barrier that diggers cannot bypass. Overhead netting closes the top, blocking climbing raccoons and hawks. The specifications are not suggestions; mesh over ½-inch or gauge under 19 is a liability.
Hardware Cloth, Anti-Dig Apron, and Overhead Netting: The Three-Barrier Setup
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Gather the materials and tools before beginning. A run frame must be in place first, then the predation layers follow:
- ½-inch mesh hardware cloth, 19-gauge (16-gauge in high-pressure areas)—enough for all vertical surfaces plus a 12-inch-wide apron strip around the full perimeter.
- Overhead netting: knotted polyethylene or nylon bird netting with mesh ≤ 2 inches. Skip the brittle plastic deer netting.
- Ground staples, U-staples, or landscape pins to secure the apron.
- Heavy-duty zip ties or wire ties for netting.
- Galvanized poultry staples (½-inch or ¾-inch) and a hammer.
- Wire cutters, work gloves, tape measure, shovel or trenching tool.
Step 1: Choose Hardware Cloth with the Mesh and Gauge That Stops Raccoon Paws
Raccoon paws measure roughly 1 to 1.5 inches across and are dexterous enough to manipulate latches. A 1-inch mesh gap is an open invitation—a raccoon will reach through and grab a chicken. Use ½-inch mesh hardware cloth. It blocks even a juvenile’s paw, and no chicken can push its head through either.
Gauge is the second non-negotiable. 19-gauge wire withstands moderate chewing; 16-gauge handles an aggressive raccoon repeatedly prying at the same spot. Chicken wire, typically 20-gauge hexagonal mesh, fails quickly under those conditions. Check the label: 19-gauge is about 1.04 mm thick, 16-gauge about 1.29 mm.
Watch for products labeled “aviary mesh” that are actually lighter gauge. Verify both mesh size and wire diameter before buying.
Step 2: Install Hardware Cloth on the Run Walls So There Are No Weak Points
Cover every wall from the ground to at least 6 feet high because raccoons climb. Attach the hardware cloth to the outside of the frame using ½-inch or ¾-inch poultry staples driven every 4–6 inches along each stud. Overlap adjacent sheets by 4 inches, and at corners fold the cloth around the post and staple both sides. A gap wider than ½ inch is a starting point for a raccoon to pry; close it now.
Step 3: Build an Anti-Dig Apron That Raccoons Can’t Bypass
The apron is the barrier most often skipped to cut cost, and it’s the most common failure point. Install it this way:
- Dig a trench around the outside of the run—6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, measured from the base of the wall outward.
- Cut a strip of ½-inch hardware cloth at least 12 inches wide for the full perimeter.
- Attach the inner edge of the strip to the bottom of the wall cloth with a 2-inch overlap, wiring or stapling securely.
- Bend the strip outward at a 90-degree angle so it lies flat in the trench, extending horizontally away from the run.
- Backfill the trench or pin the apron down with landscape staples every 12 inches. The horizontal wire forces any digger to start 12 inches out—raccoons dig at the base of the wall, not far from it, so they hit wire and give up.
If rocky soil prevents burying, lay the apron flat on the surface and cover it with gravel or pavers. The critical requirement is that no edge can be lifted.
Step 4: Install Overhead Netting with the Right Mesh Size
Without a roof, a raccoon climbs over. Use knotted polyethylene netting with 1- to 2-inch mesh. It withstands a 15-pound raccoon’s weight and resists tearing better than extruded plastic netting.
Drape the netting taut across the top and attach it to posts and rails with zip ties every 12 inches. Overlap seams by at least 6 inches and zip-tie them closed. Sagging netting traps birds and gives a raccoon a platform; eliminate it. If the run sits against a fence, secure the netting to that fence as well.
Step 5: Check Every Seam, Corner, and Doorway—the Smallest Gap Becomes an Entry Point
Walk the perimeter after all three barriers are up. Focus on:
- The seam where the apron meets the wall—no gaps.
- Gate and door frames: install a threshold strip of hardware cloth to bridge the apron and the door bottom.
- Any gap between the top of the hardware cloth and the netting: close it with cloth or zip-ties.
- Loose staples: tighten or replace them immediately.
Mistakes That Undo a Layered Run Defense
Relying on Chicken Wire Instead of Hardware Cloth
Chicken wire has 1-inch hexagonal mesh and thin gauge—two fatal weaknesses. A raccoon reaches through it, and persistent pulling shreds the wire. Use hardware cloth from the start.
Making the Apron Too Narrow or Too Shallow
An apron that extends only 6 inches and sits shallow encourages a raccoon to dig at the edge and slide underneath. Twelve inches outward is the minimum safe depth; bury it 6 inches or stake it flush with the ground.
Leaving the Overhead Netting Loose
Loose netting sags, catches debris, and becomes a foothold for raccoons. It tears under the animal’s weight. Keep it taut and trim overhanging branches.
Using Netting with Mesh Larger Than 2 Inches
A 4-inch mesh allows a raccoon to climb through or a hawk to strike. Select netting with 2-inch mesh or smaller, knotted for strength.
Ignoring the Bottom Connection Between Wall and Apron
If the wall cloth isn’t wired to the apron strip every 6 inches, a raccoon can push its head between them and lever the apron up. Secure that seam.
Frequently Asked Questions About Raccoon-Proofing a Chicken Run
What mesh size hardware cloth stops a raccoon from reaching through?
½-inch square mesh hardware cloth. Opening any larger passes a raccoon paw and risks a chicken being grabbed.
Can I double up a 1-inch mesh instead of buying ½-inch cloth?
Doubling a 1-inch mesh doesn’t close the gaps; paws still slip between layers. Use ½-inch mesh.
How deep should the anti-dig apron be buried?
Bury it 6 inches deep and extend it 12 inches horizontally outward. If digging isn’t possible, pin it flat under gravel or pavers.
Is overhead netting really necessary for raccoons?
Yes. Raccoons climb. Netting also stops hawks and owls, so it protects the flock during the day as well.
What gauge hardware cloth is strong enough for raccoons?
19-gauge minimum; 16-gauge recommended in areas with heavy raccoon activity. Thinner gauges bend and chew through too easily.
Your Run Now Has Three Layers of Protection—What Next?
½-inch hardware cloth walls, a 12-inch anti-dig apron, and taut overhead netting block the three methods raccoons use to kill chickens. Walk the perimeter monthly after storms, checking for loosened staples and any signs of digging. Keep extra hardware cloth for immediate repairs. Securing coop doors comes next—raccoons handle simple latches easily, so follow up with our guide on raccoon-resistant door locks to close the final entry route.
